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Is Natural Deodorant Healthier For You? Starting With Aluminium

NATURAL Deodorant

Aluminium is the ingredient that sends most people looking for an alternative in the first place, and it's also where the information gets muddiest. Here's what aluminium salts do under your arms, what happens to them afterwards, and why the question that actually matters is a cumulative one.


Why is Aluminium used in antiperspirants?

Deodorant and antiperspirant sit side by side on the shelf and get talked about as the same thing. They work in completely different ways, and the difference is this one ingredient.

Antiperspirants contain aluminium salts, usually Aluminium Chlorohydrate or Aluminium Zirconium Tetrachlorohydrex Gly. When they meet moisture on the skin they form a soft plug in the opening of each sweat duct, so sweat can't reach the surface. The plugs sit there for around a day and wash out gradually.

Deodorant leaves the sweat glands alone. Sweat on its own is very close to odourless, and the smell only turns up later, once skin bacteria have started breaking it down. Deodorant works on that second stage instead.

Which means there's a simpler question sitting in front of the safety one: do you want to stop perspiring at all? Sweating is how your body manages its own temperature, and plenty of people decide they'd rather not switch it off every morning.

How much Aluminium gets in?

Most of what you apply stays on the surface and washes away. A small proportion passes through the skin, and that has been measured directly. In 2001, Flarend and colleagues used a radioactive tracer to follow aluminium chlorohydrate through the body after a single application. Around 0.01% of the applied dose was absorbed, roughly four micrograms from one application to both underarms. A more recent microtracer study, published in 2022, put the figure lower again.

Those are small numbers. What they measure is also quite specific: one application, of one product, on intact skin, in a very small number of people. What they don't measure is the same product applied every morning for forty years, on skin that's just been shaved, alongside everything else in the bathroom cabinet.

Skin that's been shaved matters here. Laboratory studies on stripped skin, where the outer barrier has been deliberately removed, found considerably greater penetration, and the researchers recommended caution when applying aluminium salts to compromised skin. Shaving disturbs that same barrier, which is why products sting on freshly shaved skin. Nobody has established a reliable figure for how much normal underarm shaving increases absorption. You'll see one quoted online, but it doesn't appear to trace back to a study.

Then there's what the body does with what it takes in. Aluminium is cleared slowly, mainly by the kidneys, and what isn't cleared is deposited in tissue. It's been measured in bone, lung, liver, kidney, thyroid and brain tissue, and the total body burden tends to climb gradually across a lifetime rather than resetting between applications.

The studies measure a morning. The exposure is a lifetime.

The oestrogen question

This is where most of the concern about underarm products started, and it's worth setting out properly.

Some chemicals can mimic oestrogen in the body. They're known as xenoestrogens, or endocrine disruptors, and they interfere with the hormonal signalling that ordinarily runs on your own oestrogen. Parabens and certain phthalates behave this way. Aluminium salts have also been shown in laboratory studies to bind to oestrogen receptors, which is why some researchers describe them as metalloestrogens.

Lifetime exposure to oestrogen is an established risk factor in breast cancer epidemiology. It's why early menarche, late menopause and long-term HRT all appear in risk models. So anything that adds to that lifetime signal is worth understanding, particularly an exposure that starts in adolescence, while breast tissue is still developing, and carries on for decades.

Aluminium has also been measured in the breast itself, in tissue, in cyst fluid and in nipple fluid. What those findings do and don't tell us is a longer conversation, and we've given it its own article: Does aluminium in deodorant cause breast cancer?

What "safe" is actually measuring

Regulators work to a threshold. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety reviewed the absorption data and set concentration limits for aluminium in cosmetics, and anything sold legally here is formulated within them.

It's worth being clear about what that assessment answers, though. It asks whether a given concentration of one ingredient, in one product, is acceptable on the evidence currently available. It doesn't ask what happens when that ingredient goes on every morning for decades. Or when it goes onto skin that's been shaved minutes earlier. Or when it sits alongside the dozen or so other products most of us use daily, several of which carry their own hormone-active ingredients. Those exposures don't arrive one at a time, but that's very close to how they're studied.

Breast Cancer UK have argued for the removal of aluminium compounds from underarm products altogether, on the basis that this exposure is daily, lifelong, avoidable, and applied right next to tissue that's sensitive to hormonal signalling. When those four things are true at once, waiting for certainty seems like the wrong way round. A limit set for a single ingredient in isolation isn't the same thing as knowing it's safe in the life you actually live.

The rest of the label

Aluminium takes most of the attention, but it's rarely the only thing people find when they turn the packet over.

What else turns up on an antiperspirant label

  • Synthetic fragrance. One word, "parfum", can stand in for dozens of undisclosed components. Fragrance is among the most common causes of contact allergy in cosmetics, and some phthalates used to fix scent are endocrine disruptors.
  • Parabens. Preservatives with oestrogen-mimicking activity. Regulators have restricted the ones of most concern, and many brands have removed the rest.
  • Triclosan. An antibacterial withdrawn from consumer soaps in the US in 2016, after manufacturers couldn't demonstrate it was safe for long-term daily use or more effective than plain soap.
  • Propylene glycol. A carrier that helps other ingredients spread and absorb. Fine for many people, a reliable irritant for a minority.

Individually, none of these is dramatic. It's the pattern that matters. Most of us use around a dozen personal care products a day, and underarm products are among the few that stay on the skin for a full twenty-four hours rather than being rinsed off. Very little of that has been studied in combination, over decades, at the doses people actually use.

Where that leaves the decision

Nobody can hand you a settled answer on aluminium, and any brand telling you otherwise is going further than the evidence does. What can be said is that this particular exposure starts young, repeats daily, lands next to hormone-sensitive tissue, and, unlike almost everything else on the list, sits entirely within your control.

You can't do much about the air on your commute, the water in your tap or what was sprayed on your lunch. You can decide what goes under your arms tomorrow morning.

And the trade is a small one. Deodorant made without aluminium won't stop you sweating, because nothing natural will. What it does is handle the odour, which is what most of us wanted from the product in the first place. Given how easy that swap is, taking it off the list seems a fair thing to do.

Common questions

What does aluminium actually do in an antiperspirant?

Aluminium salts react with moisture on the skin and form a soft plug in each sweat duct, stopping perspiration reaching the surface. The plugs break down and wash out over roughly a day. Deodorant doesn't do this at all. It leaves sweating alone and works on the odour that develops afterwards.

Is aluminium in deodorant absorbed into the body?

A small proportion is. Human tracer studies estimate around 0.01% of a single application passes through intact skin, roughly four micrograms per use. Those studies measure one application on undamaged skin, not decades of daily use. Aluminium is also cleared slowly, so what is absorbed tends to accumulate in tissue rather than clearing between applications.

Does shaving increase how much is absorbed?

Shaving disturbs the skin barrier, and laboratory studies show compromised skin allows considerably greater penetration than intact skin. No reliable figure exists for normal underarm shaving specifically. Shaving in the evening and applying the next morning gives skin time to recover, whichever product you use.

Does aluminium in deodorant cause breast cancer?

No causal link has been established, though that isn't the end of the conversation. Aluminium has been measured in breast tissue and in nipple fluid, and researchers are still working out what that means. The full picture is here.

Does "natural deodorant" always mean aluminium-free?

The word "natural" isn't regulated, so on its own it guarantees nothing. Turn the packet over instead. A genuine natural deodorant has a short ingredients list, most of which you'll recognise, with no aluminium salts anywhere on it.

References

Flarend R, Bin T, Elmore D, Hem SL. A preliminary study of the dermal absorption of aluminium from antiperspirants using aluminium-26. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 2001;39(2):163-168.

de Ligt R, et al. Assessment of dermal absorption of aluminium from a representative antiperspirant formulation using a ²⁶Al microtracer approach. Toxicology Research, 2022;11(3):511.

Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety. Opinion on the safety of aluminium in cosmetic products. European Commission, 2020.